If you’re reading this, chances are you’ve just realized your old TV signal is breaking up, your home internet speed is slower than it should be for your streaming plan, or you’re setting up a new security camera system that needs a reliable coaxial connection. As someone who’s spent the last 12 years working with coaxial cables—first as a field tech, now as part of a team supplying these cables to residential installers, small businesses, and DIYers—I can tell you: installing coaxial cable isn’t rocket science, but it’s easy to cut corners that lead to frustrating signal issues down the line. I’ve seen people skip a simple step and end up calling their internet provider for a service call, when the fix was just a better cable installation. Today, I’m walking you through the process I teach every new installer that reaches out to our team, with tips you won’t find in generic online guides. Coaxial Cable
First, let’s talk about what you need before you even touch a cable. I’ve had customers reach to our supply desk saying “I just need a coaxial cable” and they show up with a random length they bought at the hardware store. That’s a mistake. Coaxial cables aren’t one-size-fits-all. For most residential applications—like connecting a TV to a wall outlet, or a modem to a router—you’ll want a RG-6 cable. RG-59 is thinner, and used for older analog systems, but RG-6 has better shielding, which is non-negotiable for digital signals, 4K streaming, and high-speed internet. Even if you’re working on a smaller project, RG-6 is the way to go; it’s not much more expensive, and it prevents interference from Wi-Fi routers, microwaves, or neighboring devices that can mess with your signal.
Next, tools. You don’t need a fancy workshop, but grabbing the wrong tool will ruin your day. Skip the cheap wire cutters that come in multi-tool sets—they leave sharp, uneven cuts that damage the cable center conductor. Invest in a pair of flush-cut wire cutters specifically for small gauge wires, and a coaxial cable stripper. A lot of people use a utility knife, and while it’s doable, it’s way too easy to nick the shielding or the dielectric (that foam layer between the center and the shield, which keeps the signal tight). A good stripper has adjustable notches so you can set it to the exact depth you need for RG-6, which makes stripping fast and consistent. You’ll also need F-type connectors—these are the screw-on or crimp connectors that attach to the ends of the cable. Crimp connectors are better than screw-on because they create a tighter, more reliable seal, and they don’t work loose over time, especially if you’re running the cable outdoors. Finally, a crimping tool that matches your F-type connectors—cheap crimpers from big box stores often don’t apply enough pressure, so the connection will be spotty. Trust me, spending a few extra dollars on quality tools saves you from redoing connections.
Before you start running the cable, plan the route. This is another step people rush, and end up having to pull the cable through a wall or attic twice because they didn’t account for corners or existing wires. The rule of thumb is to keep runs as short as possible—coaxial signals degrade over distance, so if your modem is 20 feet from the wall outlet, don’t run 50 feet of cable just because it’s easier to hide. Also, stay at least 6 inches away from power cables, electrical lines, or speaker wires. Power cables emit electromagnetic interference that will kill your signal, especially for high-frequency digital signals that are used for streaming and internet. If you have to go through walls or ceilings, use a fish tape—a thin, flexible metal or plastic rod that lets you guide the cable through tight spaces. Never force the cable around a sharp corner; that can kink the shield or crack the dielectric, which will ruin the cable even if the ends look fine. If you have to make a turn, use a 90-degree elbow or bend the cable slowly, keeping the radius at least 2 inches to avoid damage.
Now, the part everyone gets nervous about: stripping the cable and attaching the F-type connector. Let’s break this down step by step, slow and steady. First, cut the cable to length using your flush cutters. Make sure the cut is straight, no frayed ends—if the cut is angled, you’ll have uneven stripping, so take your time here. Next, use the adjustable notch on your stripper to set it for RG-6. The stripper should have markings for different cable types, so find the RG-6 line. Hold the cable steady, insert it into the stripper, and twist the stripper around the cable two or three times. You’ll feel it cut through the outer jacket, but not go all the way through. Don’t twist too hard, or you’ll nick the inner layers. After twisting, gently pull off the outer jacket. You should now see three layers: the outer jacket you just removed, a thin aluminum or copper shielding foil, and braided copper shielding, and the center conductor, which is a solid copper wire.
Now, you need to prepare the layers to attach the connector. First, fold the braided shielding back over the outer jacket, like a cuff around the cable. Make sure none of the braid strands are touching the center conductor—if they are, that will cause a short circuit, and your signal will be non-existent. Next, take the foil layer and fold it back too, tucking it under the braid so it doesn’t stick out. You should now have the center conductor exposed, sticking out about a quarter of an inch, with the braid folded back neatly. If the center conductor is bent or has a kink, carefully straighten it with a pair of small needle nose pliers, but don’t bend it more than necessary—even a slight kink can signal issues.
Now, slide the F-type crimp connector onto the cable. The center conductor should stick all the way through the small hole in the center of the connector, right up to the end of the connector’s barrel. The braid should be around the barrel, not inside it. If the center conductor is too short, the signal will be weak; if it’s too long, it could touch the back of the connector and cause a short. Adjust it so it’s perfectly positioned, then slide the crimping tool onto the connector. Most crimping tools have a specific slot for F-type connectors, so make sure you’re using the right one. Squeeze the crimping tool firmly until it clicks, which means the crimp is tight enough. Don’t over-crimp, or you’ll damage the connector; don’t under-crimp, or it will come loose. Once the connector is crimped, gently pull on it to make sure it’s firmly attached to the cable—if it wiggles off, you didn’t crimp it enough, and you’ll have to redo the connection.
Now that your cable is made, it’s time to connect it to your devices. Start with the wall outlet. Most wall plates have a coaxial port, so just screw on the F-type connector (or hand-tighten, don’t use pliers—you’ll strip the threads). Then, run the cable to your modem or TV, connect the other end, and tighten it by hand. Once everything is connected, it’s time to test the signal. If you have a TV, pull up the signal strength menu—most modern TVs will show a percentage for signal quality; anything over 80% is good, below 50% means you have a problem. If you have internet, run a speed test and check against your provider’s advertised speed. If the signal is weak, don’t panic—common issues are a loose connector, a kinked cable, or too much length. If you’re getting interference, double-check that the cable isn’t running near power lines, and make sure the shielding on the cable is intact.
A few final tips that I’ve learned from 12 years in the field, that no one tells you. First, always leave a little extra cable at each end—don’t pull it tight between wall outlets or devices. Leaving 6 to 12 inches of extra cable gives you room to work if you need to move a device later, and it prevents tension on the connectors, which can cause them to come loose over time. Second, if you’re running cable outdoors, use a gel-filled or direct-burial rated coaxial cable, not the same RG-6 you use indoors. Outdoor cables have extra shielding and a weather-resistant jacket that protects against moisture and UV damage. Third, if you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, don’t force it—we’ve seen too many DIY jobs that end up needing a professional to fix, which costs more than if you’d hired someone in the first place. But for most people, following these steps will give you a solid connection that lasts for years.
If you’re working on a bigger project—like wiring an entire home, setting up a security system with multiple cameras, or running cable to a garage—we can supply all the cables, connectors, and tools you need, at wholesale or retail prices, with technical support every step of the way. We’ve been supplying coaxial cables to installers and DIYers across the country for over a decade, and we stand behind every product we sell. If you need help choosing the right cable, getting tools, or troubleshooting a tricky installation, reach out to our team to discuss your project needs.
Data Cable References:
- Federal Communications Commission. (2021). Coaxial Cable Installation Guidelines for Residential Broadband. FCC Consumer Technology Guide.
- Electronics Industry Alliance. (2019). Standard for Coaxial Cable Performance for Digital Video and Data Transmission. EIA-598-B.
- National Electrical Code. (2020). Article 820: Coaxial Cable Installations. NFPA.
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